By Elena McDowell


The Islamic clothing fashion Abaya styles are modernizing slowly with enterprising Emerati designers taking the lead. Their colorful and vibrant new take on the traditionally, simple black garment is even inspiring some change in Saudi Arabia.

This customary clothing has some similarity to the burqa, but there is a difference between the two. The South Asian garment is a long garment which covers the entire body in one piece. It has a net piece allowing wearers to see where they are going. Abayas are loose covers for bodies from the neck down. These can be topped by headscarves and veils to provide maximum coverage like burqas. The Niqab can be paired with Abayas to cover the whole face, except the eyes. It is can be made from cloth or a special type of plastic which is wrapped by fabric.

This traditional form of attire is a shared feature of Gulf nations. In the Emirates, black typically is the main shade, but in other countries other hues are also worn. A native eye can discern the native origin of its wearer from what is worn. A reflection of Bedouin cultural heritage, the original garment was cut from one piece of fabric and covered the whole body. But its present form can be made from several pieces of material. The social class of the wearer can be seen from fabrics used and from richness of decorative embellishments.

Evolution in Emirati style is a natural development of exposure to foreigners. Emirate natives reside in an international center and participate in foreign travel. This exposure provides fertile soil for local talents eager to try new things. Bringing a contemporary touch to customary clothing is a natural complement for customers accustomed to living in a modern era. The design variations remain true to local culture and religious norms. With the absence of a religious police, local customers have more freedom to wear different styles in public places.

It is only recently that women living in the Emirates have become more comfortable wearing new fashions outside their homes. Earlier, they would only wear traditional style in public. But, new designers are encouraging them to be more adventurous. A variety of designs, materials and adornments are refreshing traditional wear. Fashionable ladies can try a variety of styles. Bringing beauty to an austere garb is also making new customers of South Asian Burqa wearers.

Even conservative Saudi Arabia is not immune to some change. Eman Al-Mandeel, a talented Saudi designer is among several bringing fashionable trends to their home country. Eman Al-Mandeel started her career in Dubai. Her career there gave her the courage to try and sell her creations in her native country. Colorful trimmings, new fabrics and styles are encouraging Saudi ladies to express their style preferences. At least privately, they have begun to replace the anonymity of traditional garb with a more fashionable style.

But, in Riyadh, the traditional colored garment without embellishment is still a norm. If there is some decorative element in these garments it is subdued. The religious police, the Muttawa, have been known to confiscate colorful Abayas. The color and fashion revolution has more potential behind closed doors. In privacy, modern tweaks allow Saudi women to display their fashion sense and personality through their attire.

Different outfits for different occasions are also expanding the market for this attire. New talents are expanding the possibilities. Today something contemporary as well as traditional extends to the use of fabric using bamboo as a source. Whether classically simple or with a dash of pricey detail, modern changes merge religious custom and cultural expression with contemporary style in modern Islamic clothing fashion Abaya styles.




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