By Dan Feildman




I use adobe Photoshop as little as I can, I will much prefer to get a picture correct in camera for that reason I'm not investing time for every single image. The majority of my own images have been captured on average half an hour.

A photo shot at mid day, might be affected by harsh and high sun light. To overcome this I positioned my model in the shadows created by the actual branches of a sizable palm tree. I set up a sizable California Sun-bounce Gold and Silver Zebra reflector in the direct sun light reflecting soft warm lighting on the front of a model.

I took a light reading from the models face and photographed at shutter speed of 1250s aperture of f2.8 at 400 ISO. White balance set up to daylight.

This image has been shot on my small D2H with a 24mm to be able to 70mm f2,8 Nikon lens, focal duration set from 42mm, 1.4 mtrs away from my personal model to emphasize her limbs also therefore we had a great connection with regard to creating great energy and directing.

Notice my own lens/eye level is within the middle of the girl torso, this is very important when firing wide perspective and close to the subject to avoid distortion, ie if you take to high up your designs head will be big and her legs will look like they are brief like a hen and visa versa therefore its vital that you get your eye/camera lens level at the right just the height in order to avoid distortion,

I will most likely shoot from your lower angle, especially if I am trying to emphasize the length of a versions legs regarding hosiery photos.

To keep the sun as azure as possible I chance with a polarizing filtration system on my lens, looking towards the west of the actual midday sun. This is how you keep the sea and heaven blue in addition to making my own models skin/tan look great an silky by removing some of the specular reflections on her behalf skin.

When I had been taking pictures facing a lot more to the east the sky and the sea would have been much more burned out..

When I began shooting digital I stood a lot of issues because I tried to shoot digital the same way that I shot film. Now any time I am firing, I will always beneath expose in the meter studying, this is done a couple of of reasons, to be able to saturate shade as well as to ensure I am not loosing my personal high lighting. Obviously my images will be a little about the dark side but I can easily appropriate for this by using a little s curve inside Photoshop to start the actual retouching process.

I always shoot raw files and a small jpg, the reason why I will explain in another Small Gem.

I process my raw file like shot in camera raw from Bridge and open these in Photoshop. (Raw files possess a great deal more latitude re graphic data and also will bring about much better quality photos).

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