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I use adobe Photoshop as little as I can, I will much prefer to get a photo perfect in camera which means that I'm not spending time with each and every image. Nearly all of my personal pictures have been taken around 30 minutes.
A picture shot around mid day, might be affected by harsh and high sunlight. To get over this I placed my model in the shadows created by the branches of a sizable palm tree. I set up a large California Sun-bounce Gold and Silver Zebra reflector in the direct sunlight reflecting soft warm lighting onto the front of my model.
I took a light measurement from the models face and photographed with shutter speed of 1250s aperture of f2.8 at 400 ISO. White balance set to daytime.
This image was shot in my D2H with a 24mm to 70mm f2,8 Nikon lens, focal length set at 42mm, 1.4 mtrs away from my model to emphasize her arms and legs also so we had a excellent connection with regard to creating good energy and leading.
Notice my own lens/eye level is in the middle of the woman's torso, this is important when shooting wide angle and close to your own subject to prevent distortion, ie if you blast to high up your designs head is going to be big and the girl legs will look like they are quick like a chicken and visa versa thus its crucial that you get your eye/camera lens stage at the right just the height to avoid distortion,
I will often shoot from the lower angle, particularly if I am trying to emphasize the space of a models legs with regard to hosiery pictures.
To keep the sky as azure as possible I chance with a polarizing filtration on my lens, considering the west of the particular midday sunshine. This is how you keep the sea and heaven blue as well as making my own models skin/tan look great an silky by removing some of the particular specular reflections on her behalf skin.
If I had been taking pictures facing much more to the east the sky and the ocean would have been a lot more burned away..
When I began shooting digital I stood a lot of difficulties because I tried to shoot digital the same way that I shot film. Now any time I am firing, I will always under expose from the meter reading, this is done for a couple of reasons, to be able to saturate color as well as to make sure I am not necessarily loosing my own high lights. Obviously my own images will be a little around the dark side yet I can easily correct for this simply by using a little s curve in Photoshop to start the retouching process.
I usually shoot raw files and a small jpg, exactly why I will explain inside another Small Gem.
I process my raw file like shot in camera raw from Bridge and open these in Photoshop. (Raw files use a great deal more latitude re image information and will bring about greater quality photos).
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