By Lora Jones


Textile printing is a term that is frequently used when describing the application of color to material in special patterns or designs. When correctly done, this color is bonded to fiber so that washing and friction do not wear the applied patterns or designs. Both clothing makers and designers practice custom fabric printing when putting together works.

The practice is much like dying. However, a primary differences between the techniques is that dying involves changing the color of the fabric as a whole. With print jobs, one or many colors are applied in a particular pattern or design chosen by the creator.

There are a variety of materials and tools used during this practice. The most common tools utilized: wooden blocks, rollers, engraved plates, silkscreens and stencils. Colorants that are employed during this process include dyes that have been thickened to prevent color from spreading beyond the design or pattern limits. Traditional techniques for this practice can be categorized in four main styles: direct, use of mordant, resist dying and discharge.

A direct print refers to that in which colorants include thickeners, mordants and dyes or substances necessary for adding color to cloth are used to print the desired pattern. Mordant may also be used to print the desired pattern before the cloth has been dyed. After this process, the color will only attach to the area where mordant was printed.

Resist dying may also be used. This involves using wax or some other substance to print of fabric that will be dyed later. The areas that have wax will not hold the dye. This leaves uncolored patterns on a colored background. The discharge technique involves application of a bleaching product that is printed on previously dyed material. This is done to remove all, or a portion of, the color. Discharge and resist techniques were more common during the nineteenth century, while the direct technique is more used today.

The different methods of printing include, but are not limited to: hand block; perrotine; engraved copperplate; roller, machine or cylinder; stencil; screen; and digital textile. Although the majority of custom prints are done through one of the above processes, there are other combinations employed. The method that is used is decided upon by the artist and often relative to the result that is desired.

Colors and fabric will need to be prepared prior to printing. The cloth may need to be brushed to remove naps, flocks and dust. Some require shearing, which is done as a way to clean and smooth out the surface. Some materials may need to be stretched or straightened using special machines and tools. Preparation will depend on the kind of material and print method. Developing colors is a process that may require knowledge of various chemicals and technical experience.

Textile making, or custom fabric printing, is a common practice for those who make clothes, crafts and other goods with fabric. This can be carried out in many different ways and may require certain knowledge and skill in order for correct application. This is different than dying because it involves adding color in specific designs and patterns and not just one solid color over the entire piece of material.




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